Yes, you need one. No, they are not cruel. If your dog lived in the
woods he would seek out a small den where he could rest
comfortably, away from predators. Think of a crate as a portable
den. Your dog will if its presented correctly. My dogs all love them.
They have always been a safe and comnfortable place to rest.
They have never been a "jail"!
An Odor Eliminator
You can buy a commercial one or mix one part white vinegar to
four parts water.
The Crate
Yes, you need one. And no, it is not cruel. Doesn't mom keep baby in a
crib or playpen when he can't be supervised? Dogs are den animals.
They will seek out a den to feel protected when in the wild. It will be small
and cozy. A crate becomes your dogs portable den. I prefer the plastic
carriers you see at airports (see photo below). They are safer, quieter,
cheaper and more portable than wire cages. Here is your first rule.
When your puppy or untrained dog is not supervised, he or she is in the
crate. Teach your dog to enter on command. Begin by saying "Kennel"
or any word you prefer. Place the dog in the crate, give a food
reinforcement (a treat) and lock it. Wait 15 seconds and then release
the dog and praise him. In this way the dog will associate the crate with
the food and feel it is a good thing. Work the dog up to an overnight
stay. Keep the crate in your bedroom next to the bed. If the dog is noisy,
rap on the top and say "Quiet". And never, ever let the dog out if he is
noisy. You'd be reinforcing his behavior. When I say "Kennel", my dogs
will run into their crates and wait for that treat. Sometimes I have one
and sometimes I do not. Variable reinforcements worked better than
fixed ones. When you go out, leave a talk radio station on in another
room (Rush Limbaugh is a good choice if your dog is a "Ditto-Head").
Hearing voices will help your dog not to feel so alone
The "Bye-Bye Bone"
Pet stores and pet catalogs sell sterilized bones that are hollow in the
middle. These bones make excellent devices for taking a dogs mind off
of his aloneness when stuffed with his favorite foods such as cheese,
liver treats, salami and alike. Many trainers say that a dog is most upset
during the first hour after an owner leaves. The bone stuffed with
goodies becomes the center of the dog's attention for an hour or so
while he tries his hardest to extract the food from the bone's hollow
middle. This allows the owner to slip out without a fuss. When you return
home, remove the bone from the dog's crate, let him out, put him into a
sit and poke the remaining food out onto the floor for the dog's
consumption with a chopstick or other device. Jackpot! Now the bone
gets put away until next time. Believe me, after a few days of this the
dog will not worry about "Where's my owner going?" but instead will
worry about "Where's my bone?"
What to Feed
I feed my dogs a premium kibble (dry dog food) mixed with warm water
to form a graver and fresh water. Canned dog food is usually around
80% water and has one-third the nutrient as dry food. Not to mention , it
is messy and smelly. Since most dry foods are provide well-balanced
diets, table scraps are not recommended very often. Remember,
chocolate can be toxic to a dog.
Establish Meal Periods
If you feed and water your dog on a schedule, your dog will eliminate on
a schedule. FREE FEEDING AND FREE WATERING YOUR DOG
WILL MAKE THE JOB OF HOUSE TRAINING MUCH MORE
DIFFICULT...First, establish meal periods. Two to three meal periods
very young puppies and a single meal period (usually in the evening) for
adult dogs. The meal period will last for 20 minutes. During that time
give the required amount of food and as much water as the dog wants.
At the end of the meal period, remove the food and water whether or not
the dog has eaten unless instructed otherwise by your veterinarian. If the
dog plays and does not eat, he will learn that the food will be taken away
in time. This also helps to discourage picky eating habits.
Place Your Dog on Elimination Commands
Many dog owners inadvertently teach their dogs to eliminate indoors.
Each time they take their dog outside they wait for him to eliminate. As
soon as he does, they bring him in. Most dogs, especially young ones,
like the sights and smells of the outdoors. So they quickly learn that as
soon as they eliminate, they are taken inside. They learn to hold it until
they come inside to prolong the experience.
It makes better sense to train your dog to eliminate on command,
especially if you must leash walk him. Take your dog to "his spot" each
time. As your dog begins to urinate, choose a word and say it over and
over as the behavior is occurring (I say the work "Park") Do this each
time your dog urinates. After several weeks of hearing "Park... Park...
Park" as he urinates, it will eventually act as a trigger of the behavior. I
use a different phrase ("Hurry Up") for defecating. Each time your dog
finishes, praise him while offering a food reinforcement (a treat). I use
dried liver available at most pet stores because I can leave it in my
pocket without going bad. When he has eliminated, take him for a walk
as a reward! If your dog fails to eliminate in 5 minutes, take him inside
and crate him for a half-hour or so and then try again.
The Instructive Reprimand
Each time you take your dog outside say, "Outside". Soon he will learn
what outside means Then, if the dog inappropriately urinates inside in
your presence, say "Outside" and take him to "his spot". "Outside"
becomes an instructive reprimand because it is instructive (directs the
dog to the appropriate elimination place) and it is a reprimand because
of the tone of voice you use as the behavior is occurring thus acting as a
negative reinforcement.
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